SAN MARCOS SIERRAS | What to See and Do
San Marcos Sierras is a tiny hippy town in the Punilla Valley of the Cordoba province in Argentina. It’s a great day trip from Capilla del Monte or a relaxing weekend trip away from the city.
San Marcos Sierras is not a very commonly visited town in the province of Cordoba Argentina. This is mainly because it is small and usually overshadowed by its neighbor, Capilla del Monte. But San Marcos Sierras has its own charm and is worth spending a few days here.
I spent 4 days in San Marcos Sierras in mid-December 2024 and was lucky enough to be there during a full moon, which allowed for incredible nighttime skyscapes and night hikes. If you can, I suggest trying to time your visit here with a full moon to maximize the true beauty of San Marcos Sierras.
In this ultimate guide to San Marcos Sierras, I’ll enlighten you on what to do, where to eat, and where to stay. Enjoy!
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Where to Stay
San Marcos Sierras Top Things to do
- Hike to La Espina and Cerro de la Cruz
- Shop at the weekend markets
- Relax at the Rio Quilpo or Rio San Marcos
- Visit the bookstore in the forest
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Where is San Marcos Sierras located?
San Marcos Sierras is located in the north of the Córdoba province, which is in the center of Argentina. It is about 3 hours north of Córdoba Capital, in the northern part of the Punilla Valley, which stretches all the way down to Villa Icho Cruz and Carlos Paz. It is 40 minutes from Capilla del Monte, the main town in the area.
Mapa San Marcos Sierras
What is the Vibe of San Marcos Sierras?
San Marcos Sierras is a very laid-back small town in the Sierras of Cordoba. Thanks to the fashion choices and ideals of the people who live here, it can be described as a slow-moving “hippie” town. You’ll see young parents in the plaza watching their kids on the playground, and musicians strum their guitars in front of restaurants.
There are nighttime group hikes during full moons and signs advertising local yoga classes. It is easy to feel in touch with nature here since you are surrounded by it everywhere you look. Trailheads leading to small mountain hill peaks are just feet away from the main plaza.
There are no paved roads in San Marcos Sierras.
San Marcos Sierras Things to do
While San Marcos Sierras is a small town, you can still easily fill up a few days here. During the warmer months (December, January, February), the days are very hot. I suggest spending the middle parts of the day either indoors resting or at the river. That said, you can easily do the listed activities in the mornings or evenings.
1. Visit the Markets
Like most small towns in Argentina, Capilla del Monte also has its fair share of craft and artisan markets. If you have a few days to spend here, you can even get custom-made items for yourself, such as leather shoes, rings, or jackets.
Feria de Artesanos
The main outdoor market occurs every Saturday and Sunday evening from around 5 p.m. until late. During the high season (January – February), the market is open every day of the week. You can find clothing, jewelry, pottery, etc., similar to the San Telmo Sunday market, but several times smaller.
Artisan shops around the plaza
There are several shops with handmade goods all around town, but they are mostly concentrated on the east side of the main plaza, Plaza Cacique Tulian.
2. Relax at the Rio San Marcos
Balneario Rio San Marcos on Google Maps.
Every day I spent in San Marcos Sierras, I walked near the Rio San Marcos and saw several children splashing around in the section near the bridge. As a child, I would have loved this. The banks are lined with grass and it’s a great place to read a book, chill with friends, or drink mate, especially as the day starts to cool down.
3. Spend the day at Rio Quilpo
The Rio Quilpo is a 20-minute drive away from San Marcos Sierras along a dirt road. There are two main areas where people like to hang out: Tres Piletas and the Camping Municipal Río Quilpo. Both places have BBQ grills, picnic tables, and bathrooms. You’ll have to pay a small fee to spend the day here. We paid 3000 pesos ($3) each at Tres Piletas.
Unfortunately, when I went, the water was quite dirty, so I didn’t swim. But if you don’t mind a little dirt, jump right in. It will be nice to cool off on a hot day.
4. Get a lecture at the Hippie Museum
The Hippie Museum on Google Maps.
There are signs all over town advertising the “World’s First Hippie Museum.” It sounded intriguing, so I decided to go. I did not like it at all, but if you’re interested in meeting a funky old hippie and seeing his treasures, then go for it!
When you arrive, you have to sound a bell to let the owner, Peluca, know you’re there. He will then come out to fetch you and give you a guided tour that lasts over an hour. There are two small rooms full of things he has collected over his life. He will brag about the famous people he has met and the things they have given him.
This is more a museum about the owner’s life than it is about the history or culture of hippie thought. It feels as if your dad gave you a tour of his garage, explaining every single item he had ever collected in an obviously memorized monologue, and then made you pay for it.
There is no set entry price, per se, but rather a suggested donation price of 7,000 pesos ($7), which felt wildly expensive for what it was. The owner will ask you to donate extra beyond that if you liked the experience. I did not give more than 7,000.
5. Hike to the Cerro de la Cruz
Cerro de la Cruz on Google Maps.
This is an easy hike to do from the center of town. The trailhead is just one block away from the main plaza. It takes about 15 minutes to reach the peak, where you’ll see the cross statue. From the top, you’ll have a great view of San Marcos Sierras in front of you, and a beautiful green valley behind you.
When there is a full moon, you can join a group hike in the evening. For this, contact Cecilia Tulian. It’s a hike up to Cerro de la Cruz that lasts about 2 hours. She will talk about the flora and fauna and oral histories of this town. Meet at Taller de Yimi (next to Bambú) at 7:30 pm. A suggested donation of 5000 pesos ($5).
You can contact her here:
Cecilia: +54-35-4954-6850
6. Hike to La Espina
This is another fairly easy hike to reach from the town center. The trailhead is about a 10-15 minute walk from the main plaza. Once you reach the trailhead, though, it only takes 15-20 minutes to reach the peak where you’ll find the “espina,” or thorn. It is meant to symbolize the protection of the mountain that stands above the town.
There are two ways to go up. You can either take the flat dirt road up that is wide enough for cars, or you can take the hiking trail up. The hiking trail has a lot of large, loose rocks. It was okay going up, but more of a challenge going down.
When there is a full moon, you can join a group hike in the evening. For this, contact Eliana. It’s a 5km hike that lasts about 2.5 hours. She will explain the nuances of the area. Meet in the main plaza at 7 pm. You can contact her here:
Eli: +54-35-4954-8552
7. People watch in Plaza Cacique Tulian
Plaza Cacique Tulian on Google Maps.
The main plaza in the center of San Marcos Sierras is called the Plaza Cacique Tulian (Chief Tulian). It is surrounded by restaurants, shops, and cafes. There are many trees in the park, along with a playground and several benches. In the evenings, this plaza gets pretty crowded with people strolling, drinking mate, or playing with their kids.
8. Walk Through the Túneles Vegetales
Túneles Vegetales on Google Maps.
These green tunnels cover the small street that takes you to both the Hippie Museum and the Siempre es Hoy bookstore. They provide great shade and relief from the sun on a hot day. You feel like you are inside a fairytale as you stroll through here.
9. Read a book in nature at the Siempre es Hoy Bookstore
Along the route of the Túneles Vegetales, you’ll find this serene bookstore tucked away in the forest. It is just one large room with a great selection of books (in Spanish) to peruse. There is a large garden with statues outside, as well as a cute cafe. Grab an iced coffee and take a seat in the forest to enjoy your life.
Use AllTrails+ in San Marcos Sierras
There are so many hiking trails in the area that I strongly suggest downloading the maps in advance for the trails you plan to hike. This has helped me so many times while hiking. You can download maps on Google, Maps.me, or AllTrails+.
I use AllTrails Plus when I go hiking. I highly recommend it as you can download offline maps, and send out “lifelines” to friends and family to let them know exactly where you are. You can rate trails, and get inspired to try new ones. The membership is $35/year, but with this discount, it is just $25 for the year. That’s barely $2/month.
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Where to Eat in San Marcos Sierras
There are several great San Marcos Sierras restaurants and cafes in this small town, especially surrounding the main plaza.
Restaurants surrounding Plaza Cacique Tulian
There are a number of other restaurants along the edges of the main plaza. I ate at several of them and had positive experiences. A few good ones I ate at:
Keparace
Keparece is on the south side of the main plaza next to the church. Of all the restaurants in town, this was my favorite. There was no AC inside, so it can get pretty hot, but the ambiance inside is cozy. The food was delicious, and I was happy to find an alternative to the empanada/milanesa/pasta dishes that oversaturate Argentina.
San Marcos Pie
San Marcos Pie on Google Maps.
This is the cutest little cafe set right in nature. You can find the entry to reach the cafe along the trail to the Cerro de la Cruz. After entering the trail, you’ll see a small route that veers off to the right with a few signs pointing to the cafe.
I came up here one evening to enjoy a lemonade as I sat right in the middle of nature. It was incredibly beautiful and peaceful.
Travel Insurance for Traveling in Argentina
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Best Time To Visit San Marcos Sierras
The high season in San Marcos Sierras is during the summer months of January and February. The weather gets warm in December, but kids are still finishing school and getting ready for the holidays. It becomes a much more popular destination in the summer.
I was here in early-mid December 2024. The weather was much hotter here than it was in Capilla del Monte. I tried to do all my activities during the morning and evening hours and stay indoors during the middle of the day, except when I spent the day next to the Rio Quilpo. In December, the temperatures reached about 95°F (31 °C) on most days.
July and August will be colder than the summer months, but it will never get too cold. Temperatures stay pretty moderate during the winter months here, with averages ranging between 55-75°F (13- 22 °C).
Money in San Marcos
There are not a lot of ATMs, and I did not see a Western Union, so I would not rely on getting cash here. Before I went, I was told to bring cash as most places don’t accept cards. I found that to not be true. Most places accept credit cards. Every once in a while there would be a fee (5%-10%) for paying with a credit card.
Getting Around San Marcos Sierras
Taxi
Didi and Uber do not work in San Marcos Sierras. If you want to take a taxi here, ask your accommodation to call one for you. There will be a few hanging out around the main bus terminal as well. There is also a taxi stand just off the main plaza with a sign for taking trips to Rio Quilpo.
Walk
San Marcos Sierras is very walkable. You can walk everywhere, except to the Rio Quilpo, which would take about one hour. For that, you would need to call a taxi. There is a taxi stand on Calle Sarmiento for trips to Rio Quilpo. Other than that, San Marcos Sierras is incredibly walkable.
How to get to San Marcos Sierras
Bus
There is one bus per day that goes to Capilla del Monte and back. The bus from Capilla del Monte leaves at 11:37 am and takes 40 minutes. The only bus back to Capilla del Monte from San Marcos Sierras is at 4:37 pm.
This bus then continues south to other cities within the Cordoba province. The bus arrives/departs from the main terminal in both Capilla and San Marcos Sierras.
If you want to leave San Marcos Sierras at a time other than 4:37 pm, your best bet is to catch the local bus to Cruz del Eje, which takes 40 minutes. In Cruz del Eje, you’ll find several bus companies going to other towns more frequently.
You can catch the local bus in San Marcos Sierras next to the balneario, where the bus crosses the river, or in front of the Cantina S&M Almacen, which is diagonal from the main plaza. The location depends on where the next stop is. All locals will be able to tell you which stop to wait at.
The schedules between San Marcos Sierras and Cruz del Eje change between the high and low seasons. You can ask the tourist information office in the main plaza for the updated schedule. They usually post it on the glass window.
The photos below show the low-season and high-season schedules between San Marcos Sierras and Cruz del Eje. The schedule on the right shows the Sarmiento bus schedule from Cruz del Eje back to Cordoba Capital.
You can get tickets at the station, directly on the Sarmiento website, Unibus, or Busbud. You can pay in cash aboard the Cruz del Eje-San Marcos Sierras local bus (2900 pesos/$2.90).
Rent a Car
You really don’t need a car if you plan to spend most of your time in town. Everything is close and easy to walk to. The only reason you would need a car is if you want to drive to Rio Quilpo, Capilla del Monte, or any of the surrounding nature or other small towns. You will have the best bet renting a car in Cordoba Capital.
Day Trips from San Marcos Sierras
The Córdoba province is very well connected with public transportation and high-quality roads, making day trips very easy.
Cruz del Eje
Cruz del Eje is only 40 minutes away on the local bus. There is not much to do or see in the town of Cruz del Eje. The main prize is the dique, or dam. You can spend a nice summer day by the river.
Capilla del Monte
Capilla del Monte is a big small town. The downtown center is very cute with a ton of great places to eat, drink, or go out. There is also a lot of nature easily reachable from the city center. If you’re staying in San Marcos Sierras and want to visit Capilla del Monte, keep in mind there is only one local bus that goes there per day, at 4:37 pm.
San Marcos Sierras Things to Do FAQs
If you still have questions about San Marcos Sierras, I’ve got answers for you.
How many days should I stay in San Marcos Sierras?
You can easily visit San Marcos Sierras as a day trip from Capilla del Monte. If you take the bus, you’ll arrive at about 12:15 and need to return at 4:37, which gives you nearly 4 hours to walk around town and have lunch.
If you want to do some of the hikes and disconnect a bit more, then I suggest spending at least 1-2 nights here. I stayed for 4 nights and discovered the town very slowly. But I could have done everything I wanted to in just 1-2 days.
Is San Marcos Sierras walkable?
Yes! The town is so small, it is very easy to walk around. Just keep in mind that there are no paved roads here. All roads are dirt roads.
Is San Marcos Sierras worth visiting?
Yes, it is worth visiting if you are a person looking to relax and slow down. If you’re a big ‘activity person,’ then it might not be the place for you. It is a beautiful and peaceful little town with major hippie vibes.
What is San Marcos Sierras famous for?
San Marcos Sierras is really not that famous. It is often overshadowed by Capilla del Monte. But there are great restaurants, markets, and rivers here.
Where to Stay in San Marcos Sierras
There seem to be guesthouses all over San Marcos, even though it is such a small place. Many of them are listed on online sites, but some are not. If you walk around town, you’ll see many signs with a WhatsApp number to contact if you’re interested in staying there.
If you prefer to plan ahead, like I do, then I would rely on Booking.com.
For some reason, I had a really hard time using Airbnb here. I tried to book several places that were left pending for 24 hours until they were canceled. It took days for hosts to respond to me.
If you do want to use Airbnb, book in advance to avoid stress. Otherwise, just book a hotel or guesthouse, and it will be much easier. All the action happens around the main square, so I suggest staying as close to it as possible.
Posada Argimon
This is where I stayed, and I really loved it. The location is perfect, right in front of the main plaza. The people working here are the best. Breakfast (included) is also fantastic. There is a cute courtyard in the back where you can relax. The front is also attached to a cafe and a patio. It’s really peaceful for reading or hanging out.
BOOK NOW to stay in the center of town!
Infinito Chill0ut
This hostel is right in the center of town. The artisan market is just in front of its doors. The rooms are clean and funky with breakfast included. It’s a great place to meet people and has a really nice energy.
Stay in the center of town in this cute hostel.
Lo de Jenny
If you want to stay outside of the main center and closer to nature, then this is a good option. It’s only a 10-minute walk to the center, but it is very quiet here. Breakfast is included in the price.
BOOK NOW to stay in this mountain cabin in San Marcos Sierras.
Final Thoughts on San Marcos Sierras Things to Do
San Marcos Sierras was a great place for me to spend a few days and disconnect. It is a small, quiet town, so I didn’t feel the need to be active at all times. I went hiking in the mornings and even had a chance to do a night hike during the full moon, which was incredible. You can find good food and great people in this small Cordoban town.
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