NORTH OF ARGENTINA: Ultimate Guide to Salta & Jujuy

NORTH OF ARGENTINA: Tips for Traveling Salta & Jujuy Reading Time: 43 minutes

I had been dreaming of traveling to the north of Argentina for years- those Northern Argentine landscapes, the red rocks, the desert climate- and I finally got the chance. I spent six weeks traveling between Salta and Jujuy and completely fell in love with these provinces.

It was a bit of a challenge finding solid information, however. So I want to provide the info I couldn’t find and hopefully help anyone else hoping to add the northern provinces to their Argentina itinerary. There are a ton of things to do in the north of Argentina from hiking to shopping in local markets and eating unique foods. If there is one takeaway, it is PLAN AHEAD!

Welcome to your ultimate guide to the North of Argentina!

Read more: find more posts about the Provinces of Salta and Jujuy

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When to visit the North of Argentina

The north of Argentina’s climate can be unpredictable as it is almost entirely in the desert.

I went at the end of May and the entire month of June (fall months). Nights were chilly, but most days were quite sunny. There was some tourism, but mostly from other Argentines. I only ran into 3 other foreigners in 6 weeks of travel to the north- a Brazilian, a Greek, and a Dutchman. That said, I did need to make reservations in advance often as things were filling up fast.

July and August (winter months) will get pretty cold in the north of Argentina’s desert climates. December and January (summer months) will start to get incredibly hot and it may be best to avoid during these months. September – November, and March-May will be slower months for tourism in the north of Argentina, and great times to go as the weather won’t be extremely hot or cold. You will need a light jacket for early mornings and evenings. December-March is the rainy season in the north of Argentina which is a good thing to avoid.

Keep in mind, however, that the northern Argentina towns of Salta and Jujuy get very crowded during Carnival. Check the calendar before you go.

Tips for Visiting Northern Argentina

• Don’t rush– these northern Argentina destinations deserve your time and attention.
• Bring cash– the majority of these northern Argentina towns are cash-based.
• Go off the grid– the wifi is not great in the north of Argentina. Enjoy it!
• Eat everything– Salta and Jujuy have some of the best food in the country.
• Get adventurous– there is a ton of great hiking, trips to salt flats, red rocks, etc.
• Plan ahead– Travel up north can be complicated. Book in advance to save yourself a headache.
• Don’t forget the altitude – The altitude gets really high here so you may need time to adjust

The Best Things to See and Do in Northern Argentina

Here is a quick list of all the incredible things to do and see in the north of Argentina:

• Hike the Cerro de los 7 Colores in Purmamarca
• Take a day trip to the Salinas Grandes (salt flats)
• Eat at a Peña in Purmamarca and/or Salta
• Walk through the Cañon de las 13 Vueltas in Uquia
• Hike to La Garganta del Diablo in Tilcara
• Take a day trip to see the Serrania del Hornocal outside Humahuaca
• Walk to San Isidro from Iruya
• Visit the best vineyards in Cafayate

North of Argentina Travel Essentials

• A Western Union account – to easily get cash (read more here)
• A LifeStraw water bottle – don’t drink that tap water!
• Good hats – bring both a beanie for cold nights and a cap for sunny days.
• Backpack – Roads are dirt, so it’s easier than a rolling suitcase.
• Travel Insurance – You never know what will happen. I use SafetyWing.
• AllTriails+ – To find all those hiking trails.

North of Argentina Cities and Towns

Between the provinces of Jujuy and Salta, there are tiny towns, small towns, big towns, and cities. I will take a moment to quickly describe the main spots to visit between these two provinces:

Salta

Where is Salta? The Salta province is a U-shaped province in the north of Argentina. The capital city of Salta, located near the border with Jujuy, is the only place that felt like a “city,” though a small city at that. It has all the main conveniences of a city- banks, supermarkets, restaurants, shops, bars, Western Union, etc. All the streets are paved, though much of the infrastructure outside of the main square feels old and a bit crumbling. Make sure to take care of any ‘big city’ needs here.

Read more: Salta Argentina guide and other travel guides for the province of Salta.

Where to Stay in Salta

Hostal Trotamundos

Whatsapp: +54 9 3876 37 4917
This hostel includes breakfast, and you can use the kitchen to cook. There was always hot water. The staff is friendly.

Click HERE to stay in the BEST hostel in Salta

Gran Hotel Presidente

Breakfast is included, it’s in the city center, and there is an indoor swimming pool.

Click HERE to stay in a FANTASTIC location in Salta

Cafayate

This is a small city with mainly paved roads (though lots of roads and sidewalks seem to be broken and under construction). You can find all the necessary conveniences here. Cafayate is a city in Northern Argentina famous for wine, so there are bodegas at every turn. There is also a great goat cheese farm just outside of town, easily reachable by taxi. Along the road between Cafayate and the capital of Salta, there are a ton of incredible stops, including El Anfiteatro, Garganta del Diablo, and Las Tres Cruces.

Read more: Vineyards in Cafayate Argentina guide

Where to Stay in Cafayate

Hospedaje Los Cardones

0386 845 7003
Breakfast is included. There is wifi in the main area but bad in the room. The rooms were clean, and comfortable, with good lighting. I enjoyed staying here for the week. The location was fantastic.

Click HERE to see availability and book this fantastic Bnb in Cafayate

Piatelli Resort

Stay at the beautiful and luxurious Piatelli Resort which is in the center of the vineyards. I came here for a wine tour, tasting, and lunch and it was incredible. I would have loved to stay at this resort for a few nights.

Click HERE to book the most famous resort in Cafayate

San Salvador de Jujuy

This is the capital city of the province of Jujuy, and if I’m being honest, doesn’t have much to offer. Sure, it has a few bars and restaurants, and a walk along the river, but beyond that, I found it to be a rather dull place. The streets are paved, but the city itself felt a bit old and depressing (but not the good kind of old).

Where to stay in San Salvador de Jujuy

Hotel Arbol de Fuego

This hotel is in the center of town, with easy access to the river, center, and several restaurants and cafes. Breakfast is included. It feels like a garden inside, and the rooms are very clean.

Check availability for this oasis in the center of San Salvador de Jujuy

Purmamarca

Purmamarca is quite small, and it’s easy to see the entire town center in less than an hour or two. Most of the streets are dirt here, so rolling your suitcase may take a bit longer than usual. Even though the town is quite touristy, it has a special magical charm you can only find in the North of Argentina. Purmamarca is one of the more ‘expensive’ towns in the north of Argentina, but it’s also one of the best to base yourself for some day trips in the area.

It’s surrounded by the amazing 7 Colores Mountains (Hill of 7 Colors). Purmamarca is also the best location to begin your journey to the Salinas Grandes (salt flats) in Argentina. There is great street food, and good shopping, and nearly every restaurant has live music (peña) with every meal.

Read more: what to do in Purmamarca, where to eat in Purmamarca, and
everything you need to know about the Salinas Grandes.

Where to stay in Purmamarca

Del Amauta Hosteria

A beautiful place to stay in Del Amauta Hosteria. It has a great location right on the edge of town, but everything here is walkable. The rooms are clean and beautiful.

Click HERE to see the availability for Del Amauta Hosteria and make sure to BOOK AHEAD

Hostal Giramundo

A popular hostel in Purmamarca is Hostal Giramundo. There are a number of these hostels around the north of Argentina, and they are very fun places with great ambiance.

Click HERE to see the availability for the Hostal Giramundo

Los Colorados Cabañas Boutique

This hotel is one of the most beautiful places to stay in Purmamarca. It’s set back a bit from the center of town and feels like it’s built right into the red rocks. This is one of the most unique hotels in Jujuy. If you’re looking to treat yourself a little, stay here.

Click HERE to book the beautiful Los Colorados Cabañas Boutique

Maimara

Maimara is a small town that lies between Tilcara and Purmamarca. Most roads are dirt, except the main road which divides the town in half. If you try to come in the middle of the afternoon (between 1-4) you won’t find much going on at all, as everyone is at home for siesta. Try to take a stroll around town in the morning. There are also a few miradores (lookout points) above the town for great views. You can stop by the tourist information office along the main road to get a map.

Where to stay in Maimara

Balconcito de Colores

This hotel is in a great location in the center of town. It has a great balcony with incredible views. This is a fantastic place to stay if you’re looking for something way off the beaten path.

Click HERE to see availability and book this peaceful hotel in Maimara

Tilcara

Tilcara is not a big town, but it has the conveniences of one. There are banks, supermarkets, and even a Western Union. There are tons of restaurants and cafes. It seems to be a hotspot for young, traveling, Argentine hippies too. Roads are mostly paved. This is the starting point for the hike to La Garganta del Diablo.

Click here to read the Tilcara and La Garganta del Diablo hiking guide.

Where to stay in Tilcara

Casa Atelier

This is a great place in the center of town. It has some of the best prices around with the best service. The rooms are clean and unique. Breakfast is included.

Click here to see the availability of this great value-for-your-money hotel

Bella Tilcara Boutique Hotel

This boutique hotel is clean and modern. There is great lighting and it all feels very luxurious. Breakfast is included.

Click here to see the availability of this great value-for-your-money hotel

Humahuaca

Humahuaca is a small town that can be seen in one day. Most roads are dirt, except for the main road that connects to the other towns. There are quite a few restaurants and cafes for how small it is, as well as several guest houses and places to stay (see below). It’s easy to catch transportation from here to go on the Serrania del Hornocal day trip. You can find the same shopping items here as in most of the towns in the region, though the prices in Humahuaca are the lowest. Do your shopping here.

Read more: Serrania del Hornocal Argentina travel guide.

Where to stay in Humahuaca

Casa Samachiy

This apartment is centrally located, close to restaurants, cafes, and the bus station. There is wifi, and linens are included. The kitchen is also fully stocked.

Click HERE to check the availability of this amazing apartment

Hostal Giramundo

This is a very popular hostel in Humahuaca, called Hostal Giramundo. I came here to get my laundry done and it had great vibes. Everyone was socializing and hanging out together.

Stay in the BEST hostal in Humahuaca

Uquia

Uquia is a very small town just south of Humahuaca. There isn’t much to see in the town besides a small market and a church. The real prize is going through the town, and up to the red mountains behind it. There you’ll find La Quebrada de las Señoritas and the Cañon de las 13 Vueltas. The only paved road is the highway that passes by the edge of town. Visiting Uquia is the perfect day trip from Humahuaca.

Read more: Uquia/Quebrada de las Señoritas Argentina travel guide.

Where to stay in Uquia

Huerta Las Señoritas

This is the ultimate place to stay in the north of Argentina if you’re looking for peace in the middle of the desert. You’re surrounded by nature here, and it’s a short walk to the center of Uquia.

Click HERE to see availability for the most peaceful place in Jujuy

Iruya

Iruya is a small town (population 1000) about 3 hours from Humahuaca via a winding, dusty road, that eventually leads you down into a valley. The town is surrounded by incredible rock faces and precipices, completely different from the red mountains you’ll see throughout Jujuy. There are a few great lookout points near the city. Iruya is ideal for hiking in Argentina. You can take a hike from Iruya, about 2 hours, to a small town called San Isidro. There are mostly cobblestone streets in the town of Iruya.

Read more: Iruya Argentina guide.

Where to stay in Iruya

Hotel Iruya

The most beautiful hotel in Iruya is Hotel Iruya. It sits at the edge of town on top of the hill overlooking incredible views. It’s worth staying here just for the views.

Click HERE to check availability for the BEST hotel in Iruya.

Hostal Milmahuasi Iruya

This hostel is in the center of town with a fantastic rooftop balcony and breakfast included.

Click HERE to stay at this beautiful hostel in Iruya

Excursions in the North of Argentina

If you don’t have a lot of time to spend in each city, you don’t want to take public transportation, or you just like group trips, then you’re in luck. There are a ton of excursions around the north of Argentina. Many of them leave from Salta Capital. You can take long day trips or overnight trips.

From Salta: Salinas Grandes, Purmamarca & Los Colorados Hike

This is a 12.5-hour tour at a fantastic price. From Salta, you’ll drive through Yala, Volcán, and Tumbaya. On the way, stop at the Salinas Grandes and Seven Colors Hill in Purmamarca. A bilingual guide, pick-up, and transportation are included. Food and drinks are not included.

From Salta: Serranías del Hornocal & Hill of 14 Colors Tour

This is a 12-hour tour that leaves Salta and goes north. You will have the chance to visit San Salvador de Jujuy, Tumbaya, Purmamarca, Maimará, Tilcara, Uquía, Huacalera, and the Hill of 14 Colors. A bilingual guide, pick-up, and transportation are included. Food and drinks are not included.

From Salta: Cafayate, Humahuaca & Salinas Grandes 3-Day Tour

This is a 3-day tour that goes around the Salta and Jujuy provinces. You’ll have a chance to visit the wine region in Cafayate and several of the natural landmarks on the way there. You’ll also go north to the Salinas Grandes, Purmamarca, and all the way to Humahuaca for the Hill of 14 Colors. A bilingual guide, pick-up, transportation, and entrance to a winery are included. Food, drinks, and accommodation are not included.

The Language in the North of Argentina

You will be doing yourself a favor by learning some basic Spanish if you don’t know the language already. I didn’t meet a single person in the north of Argentina who spoke English. Fortunately, I speak Spanish, which was a great help when calling ahead to make reservations, buy bus tickets, or order food at restaurants. If you don’t know the language, you can also get very far with a big smile, so just try your best! If you need to make a phone call, I suggest asking someone at your hotel/hostel to help you.

Money for Traveling in the North of Argentina

If you don’t yet know about the financial situation in Argentina, I suggest checking out my blog post about exactly that here, or watching the video on YouTube so you can more fully understand the situation.

Now that you understand the money situation in Argentina, you also understand the need to pay for almost everything in cash, but you cannot simply go to the atm and take money out as you’ll receive the red rate. Therefore, Western Union is your best friend.

There are Western Union’s all over the country for this reason (but limited up north). Sometimes a transfer from your bank account to Western Union can take longer than expected, so you need to plan. I suggest making transfers to yourself in around $300-USD 500 increments. Make your transfers at least a week in advance. The Western Union will keep your money in your account for up to 90 days, so you don’t need to worry about picking it up right away.

Advantages of Western Union in Argentina

There are advantages to making several smaller transactions of $300-$500 rather than one large one of $1000-$1500 or so. One reason is that some Western Union‘s aren’t capable of giving you that much money at once. Another reason is that you shouldn’t be carrying around that much cash on you at once, making you more vulnerable to robbery (though I honestly rarely felt threatened at all in Argentina, I did get my phone stolen in Buenos Aires).

Thirdly, the rates change quickly here, and inflation is real. You might get a drastically better exchange by waiting a few weeks. The last advantage to sending yourself money in advance is that you know it is there ready for you when you are ready for it. It’s a terrible feeling to realize you need more cash right away, but the transaction is still processing. Do it in advance!

But be aware, that some of the smaller towns like Iruya, Humahuaca, and Purmamarca do not have a Western Union. You’ll need to make sure to take care of your money issues while in bigger cities like Tilcara, San Salvador de Jujuy, Cafayate, and Salta Capital.

Accommodation in the North of Argentina

In the north of Argentina, finding places to stay is a little more challenging than in any other country I’ve ever traveled to. Reason being? Inflation! Because you can’t always use a credit card here (as of December 2022, you can now pay with Visa and Mastercard to receive the MEP rate- almost the blue rate), it’s a lot trickier than just going on a website like Airbnb, Booking, Agoda, Vrbo, Hostelworld, etc., and making a reservation with your credit card.

The best strategy I have found is to contact hotels and hostels directly. Yes, this is a little more time-consuming and might feel a little overwhelming if you don’t speak Spanish. Maybe you can have a Spanish-speaking friend help to make that phone call? Or use Google Translate to send them a WhatsApp or Facebook message. You can also try the sites like Booking.com or Agoda, and use the filter for paying in cash once you arrive.

Use Google Maps to Find Accommodation

Take a look on Google Maps for the city you want to go to. Select the ‘hotels’ tab up top. Then zoom in. You’ll be able to see some prices for certain hotels. This may take some cross-referencing, but see if they have Facebook pages, websites, or WhatsApp numbers. You can also check those bigger websites (like Booking.com or Agoda) to see what the rooms look like and what kind of reviews they get.

I generally look for places I can contact via WhatsApp or FB messenger, as it is the easiest way to communicate when you’re not a native speaker. You can also message several hotels/hostels and wait to hear back from them. Make sure to do this in advance as things move slower in the north of Argentina.

Don’t Wait to Book in Northern Argentina

I suggest not waiting until the last minute when looking for a place to stay in the north of Argentina. For example, when I was looking for a place to stay in Purmamarca, I contacted dozens of places and none of them had availability for my desired dates (1-2 weeks in advance, in June 2022).

Fortunately one of those places gave me a list of about 40 hotels/hostels in Purmamarca (see list below), and I just went down the list contacting as many as possible. Ultimately I found a place at La Casa Encantada (info below), which I loved. However, I wasn’t able to find a WhatsApp number for them at the time, so I had to call on the phone.

Look for Accommodation on Mercado Libre

Another option is to use Mercado Libre. Mercado Libre is a website and an app.

How to find temporary accommodations on the Mercado Libre app:
Categorias– Inmuebles– Alquiler Temporal– Ver mapa

From there, you can navigate on the map to the city you want to stay in. Each blue dot is an option. Zoom in. When you click on each option, there should be a blue button where you can contact them directly on WhatsApp.

See the images below on the right for a list of several hotels in Purmamarca.

Where to Stay in the North of Argentina

I have listed some places to stay in each city under those headings above, but I wanted to provide an entire section of housing, together with additional options. There are plenty of places to stay but these are my recommendations with ratings and reviews. I’ll suggest both places that I stayed, as well as other great locations.

All prices mentioned were from June 2022 when the blue dollar was at 200 pesos = 1 USD.

Where to Stay in Salta Capital

La Morenita Departamentos

Whatsapp: +54 9 3875 35 2438
Price: 3000 pesos/night (Entire apt)
RATING: 2/5 – Cold, noisy, shower floods, has a kitchen with limited utensils

Hostal Trotamundos

Whatsapp: +54 9 3876 37 4917
Price: 2800 pesos/night (private room, no bathroom)
RATING: 3/5 – breakfast, small room, shared bathroom, can use the kitchen, hot water

Hosepedaje Aniceto Latorre

Whatsapp: +54 9 3875 21 2131
Price: 1500 pesos/night (shared w/bathroom), 2000 pesos/night (private w/ bathroom)
Location: Aniceto Latorre 793, A4400 Salta
RATING: 4/5 – quiet, large terrace, shared kitchen, breakfast not included, close to center & markets, hot water, good wifi in rooms and shared spaces, cold in winter

Gran Hotel Presidente

Breakfast is included, in the city center, indoor swimming pool.

Luxor Hotel Salta

Breakfast included, in the city center, an outdoor swimming pool.

Where to Stay in San Salvador de Jujuy

This is where I stayed. I’ve included it here because it is more of a recommendation for where not to stay in San Salvador de Jujuy. I did not like it. Bot the hostel and the town are not worth visiting.

Club Hostel Jujuy

info@clubhosteljujuy.com.ar
Whatsapp: +54 9 388 477 2233
03884 237565
Price: 3300 pesos/night (private room w/ bathroom)
RATING: 2/5 – Dirty, mold, cold, terrible wifi, can use the kitchen, breakfast not included

Where to Stay in Purmamarca

(see the entire hotel list pictured above for more options)

Hosteria La Casa Encantada

hosteriacasaencantada@hotmail.com
Whatsapp: +54 388 527 0317 / 412 7401
Phone: +54 388 490 8038
Price: 5000 pesos/night (private room w/ bathroom)
RATING: 4/5 – Comfortable, warm, breakfast included, clean, bad wifi

A popular hostel in Purmamarca is Hostal Giramundo.

A beautiful place to stay in Del Amauta Hosteria.

Where to Stay in Humahuaca

Hostal La Soñada

hostallasoniada@yahoo.com.ar
0388 742 1228
Price: 3000 pesos/night (private room w/ bathroom)
RATING: 5/5 – Comfortable, clean, good shower, breakfast included, decent wifi

A very popular hostel in Humahuaca is Hostal Giramundo.

Where to Stay in Iruya

Hospedaje Alcira

Whatsapp: +54 9 3885 47 3711
0388 497 8674
Price: 2000 pesos/night (shared bathroom); 3000 pesos/night (private bathroom)
RATING: 3/5 – Very basic, space heater, no breakfast, wifi, no soap in bathrooms

The most beautiful hotel in Iruya is Hotel Iruya.

Where to Stay in Cafayate

Hospedaje Los Cardones

0386 845 7003
Price: 4500/night (private room w/ bathroom)
RATING: 5/5 – breakfast included, wifi in the main area (bad in the room), clean, comfortable

Stay at the beautiful and luxurious Piatelli Resort.

How to Get Around the North of Argentina

Transportation in each city and town in Northern Argentina has a slightly different strategy. Here I will outline the path I took, and how to get from one city to the next. You can always check Busbud for possible schedules as well.

You can of course always rent a car to have a bit more freedom to have a north of Argentina road trip, but it’s not necessary. The bus system in the north of Argentina was very reliable and very affordable. All the main towns are essentially just off of the main highway, so getting around is not so complicated.

Bus from Salta to San Salvador to Jujuy

The bus terminal in Salta is right in the center of town, and easy to find (“Terminal de Omnibus de Salta” in Google Maps). It is clean and safe, and several different bus companies go to Jujuy. I used Balut, but there are many others. Just go to the station a day or two before traveling, and buy your ticket from one of the various windows inside.

Arrive 30 minutes before your departure time as the bus will load luggage (50 pesos to put a bag in the luggage compartment), and begin boarding the bus. The bus station in San Salvador de Jujuy is outside of town, to the west of the city. You can take a taxi from the terminal to town.

PRICE: 1080 pesos (5 USD)
TIME: 3 hours

Taxi from San Salvador de Jujuy to Purmamarca

You can head back to the terminal on the outside of town to catch a bus to Purmamarca, OR you can take a shared taxi. The shared taxi is only a couple hundred extra pesos above the bus price. But it will cost around 300 pesos just to get to the station from town, so in the end, the shared taxi can be a little cheaper. I opted for the shared taxi option.

Go to the “Terminal Viejo” in the San Salvador de Jujuy town center. In front of the “Vieja Terminal Shopping Mall,” there are several private cars parked. Go just beyond the elevator. Ask one of the men where the cars for Purmamarca are (Dónde están los autos que van a Purmamarca?). Once you find a driver going that way, you just have to wait a few minutes for the car to fill up. In my case, it took less than 5 minutes. Once he had 4 passengers, we were off. I was dropped off at the bus terminal in the center of Purmamarca.

PRICE: 600 pesos (3 USD)
TIME: 1 hour

Van from Purmamarca to Salinas Grandes

Some several vans/buses leave Purmamarca every day (less frequent on Sundays). A man is standing in front of a convenience store on the corner (Purmamarca is very small) one block from the bus station window. He calls out “Salinas, Salinas.” It is very obvious. Register your name with him. They will leave once the van fills up, so there are no exact times. There are 2 stops along the way- one at a lookout point, and the other at the Jujuy altitude sign. You have about 1 hour at the salt flats before it’s time to turn back around and return to Purmamarca.

PRICE: 1500 pesos ($7.50)
TIME: 4 hours total round trip

Read more: Ultimate Guide to Salinas Grandes

Bus from Purmamarca to Maimara, Tilcara, Humahuaca

There are several buses (the Evelia company) that leave daily from the bus terminal near the entrance of town. Purmamarca is a very small town, so the bus station is obvious. You can buy your ticket from the window, and then wait on the street where the buses stop, right in the center of the block between the bus station and the Despensa Tahiel. The stop for Maimara is the one just before Tilcara.

Maimara has two bus stops: one at the park, and one in front of the tourist office. The Tilcara bus terminal is just two blocks from the center of town. The bus terminal in Humahuaca is right in the center of town.

The M-F schedule is: 6:35, 8:10, 10:25, 11:15*, 11:40*, 13:10, 16:40, 17:15, 18:40, 21:00, 22:10, 23:40 (*only goes until Tilcara, no stops in Maimara or Humahuaca).

PRICE: 60 pesos to Maimara, 120 pesos to Tilcara, 350 pesos to Humahuaca
TIME: 30 minutes to Maimara, 40 minutes to Tilcara, 75 minutes to Humahuaca

Read more: What to do in Tilcara

Bus from Tilcara to Purmamarca & Maimara

The bus companies have signs in the windows showing the times to Purmamarca. The bus will make a stop in Maimara on the way back in case you want to make a stop there from Tilcara.

The schedule from Tilcara to Purmamarca is 5:40, 7:00, 8:40, 10:15, 12:30, 12:45, 14:15, 14:45, 15:50, 18:10, 20:15, 21:00, 23:10.

PRICE: 120 pesos to Purmamarca, 50 pesos to Maimara
TIME: 40 minutes to Purmamarca, 10 minutes to Maimara

Bus from Humahuaca to Iruya

The bus terminal in Humahuaca is right on the main road in the center of town. It is super easy to find and very obvious. The drive from Humahuaca to Iruya is very winding and bumpy so prepare yourself if you get carsick easily. Choose a seat in the front of the bus. There are a few stops along the way where people are selling tortilla rellena. The last 1.5 hours of the ride are along zig-zag dirt roads that have you imagining your death. I suggest buying your bus ticket one day in advance. You can buy them at the window where you see signs for Iruya.

The schedule Sunday to Friday: 8:20, 10:30, 16:00
The schedule Saturday: 8:20, 10:30

PRICE: 650 pesos
TIME: 3 hours

4×4 from Humahuaca to Serrania del Hornocal (Rainbow Mountain)

This is very easy. There are men holding signs around the bus terminal in Humahuaca saying “Hornocal.” There are generally 4 leaving times, across all companies: 10 am, 12:30 pm, 3 pm, and 5 pm. The ride is in a 4×4, which fits 5 people. They will wait until the car is full before leaving. My guide/driver was fantastic. His name is Ariel (+54 0388 461 5833).

PRICE: 1500 pesos ($7.50 usd)
TIME: 2.5 hours round trip

Read more: Guide to Serrania del Hornocal

Bus from Humahuaca to:
Uquia, Huacalera, Tilcara, Maimara, Purmamarca, Tumbaya, Jujuy

The bus company Evelia (which is a local bus company) goes to Uquia from Humahuaca, which is just down the road. You can take that same bus down the road to Huacalera, Tilcara, Maimara, Purmamarca, Tumbaya, and San Salvador de Jujuy.

The M-F schedule is: 4:50, 5:00, 5:40, 6:15, 9:00, 9:30, 12:30, 14:00, 15:10, 17:30, 19:30, 20:15, 22:30
The weekend schedule is: 7:15, 9:00, 9:30, 12:30, 15:10, 17:30, 19:30, 20:15, 22:30

PRICE: 70 pesos to Uquia, 350 pesos to Purmamarca
TIME: 15 minutes to Uquia, 75 minutes to Purmamarca

Taxi from Iruya to Salta

It is possible to take a bus back to Humahuaca (3 hours), and then another bus to Salta (4 hours). But the fastest way is through a shared taxi. It’s best to have a local message or call for you to make the reservation one day in advance. I was told that if I message from my foreign WhatsApp number the driver will try to take advantage and ask for more money. The taxi leaves Iruya at 4 am, but more than likely the taxi will be delayed.

COMPANY: Remis Rapido y Curioso: +54 9 387 615 7439
PRICE: 3000 pesos ($15 usd)
TIME: 5 hours

Read more: Things to do in Iruya

Bus from Salta to Cafayate:

Several bus companies drive this route from Salta to Cafayate. You’ll just need to head to the Salta terminal to check all the schedules with each company to see which fits your needs best. However, you can check online first to get a general idea. I went with FlechaBus, which was a double-decker bus.

Try to sit in the first-row seat on the upper floor which provides you with incredible views of the journey. I highly recommend this. The bus terminal in Cafayate is just outside of town, but easily walkable. It took me 15 minutes to walk from the terminal to my guest house in the center of town.

The timetable for the FlechaBus buses from Salta Capital to Cafayate is as follows: 6:50 am, 11:30 am, 3:30 pm, 5 pm, 7:30 pm, 9 pm

PRICE: 790 pesos ($4 usd)
TIME: 3 hours

Bus from Cafayate to Salta

The bus terminal is just outside of town, and easily reached by foot from any guest house in the center. The timetable for the buses from Cafayate to Salta Capital are as follows: 4 am, 8:30 am, 11:30 am, 2:30 pm, 4 pm, and 7:30 pm.

PRICE: 790 pesos ($4 usd)
TIME: 3 hours

Read more: What to do in Cafayate

Food in the North of Argentina

The north of Argentina has some of the best food in the country and best of all, they like it spicy! All hail the wonderful aji picante (spicy red sauce)!

Check out my restaurant guide in Purmamarca here!

Empanadas

This is nothing new in the north, as empanadas can be found all over Argentina. However, up north they tend to be smaller, often fried, though baked can be found as well.

Aji Picante

This is a sauce, rather than a dish. But it is an amazing sauce. The rest of Argentina doesn’t really do spice, but the north does, and they do it well!

Humitas

This looks very similar to a tamale, though it is made with corn. You can get either a sweet or a salty variation.

Tamales

This is quite similar to the Mexican tamale and can be found all over the north of Argentina. They are made with corn flour and stuffed with meats and veg.

Tortilla Rellena

This is a very popular street food in the north of Argentina, particularly found all over Purmamarca. It looks more like the Mexican tortilla (unlike the Spanish tortilla), and is filled with either ham & cheese or cheese & corn.

Llama

You’ll see that in several places around Jujuy, they have an option of grilled llama, llama risotto, llama al disco, llama stew (cazuela), etc. It’s delicious and you should try it. When in Jujuy…

Api

This is a delicious breakfast drink that is very similar to chicha morada in Peru. It’s made from purple corn and has some cinnamon flavors in it. The main difference between api and chicha morada is that api is hot, whereas chicha is cold.

Internet in the North of Argentina

I have bad news for you, especially Apple users. In the majority of places I stayed around Jujuy and Salta, the internet was quite bad, and in many cases, I needed to use the hotspot on my phone. I was also told that the system in Jujuy is old, and it doesn’t handle Apple products well.

I honestly don’t know the reason for this, and I’m not entirely sure it’s true, but this is what the guesthouse owner in Purmamarca told me when none of my Apple products would connect in my room. My phone was able to get service (I used Claro) in most places, though it gets spotty in less inhabited areas, such as the Salinas Grandes. I had no problems connecting to other wifi networks at other cafes in Purmamarca, so it’s possible it was an issue with that hotel’s network (though they would deny that).

How to do Laundry in the North of Argentina

When you’re traveling, this is certainly something that you’re thinking about much more often than in your regular life. Especially up in the north of Argentina, many of the towns are dusty and lack paved roads. Surprisingly, finding a lavanderia was trickier than expected as they are often not listed on Google Maps. So to help you out, here are the ones I went to along with prices and how long it took:

Salta: This is the biggest city so you shouldn’t have issues finding a lavanderia
San Salvador de Jujuy: Lavanderia Marva, 4600 Independencia, 750 pesos, 3 hours
Purmamarca: P&P Lavanderia, Av. San Martin, 1430 pesos, 27 hours
Humahuaca: Inside the Giramundo Hostel, Salta 38, 500 pesos, 24 hours
Cafayate: Lavanderia Julieta, Vicario Toscano 228, 1000 pesos, 22 hours

Safety in the North of Argentina

I truly never felt unsafe or threatened anywhere in the northern provinces of Argentina, and I was traveling alone the entire time. Everyone I encountered was friendly and honest. I often listened at the markets to hear if I was being charged the same prices as locals were, and I was. Nobody was trying to take advantage of me. I never got that yucky feeling that I did several times in Turkey or Morocco. Only the guesthouse owner in Iruya mentioned the taxi driver possibly taking advantage of me as a foreigner.

Shopping in the North of Argentina

Some of the best shopping in the country is in the northern provinces of Argentina. There are great sweaters, slippers, dolls, etc all with that desert style: bright colors, interesting patterns. Things you can purchase in the north of Argentina will be found several times higher in Buenos Aires. Most of the northern Argentina towns sell the same items. Of all the towns I visited, I found the goods were the most expensive in Salta and least expensive in Humahuaca and Uquia.

Have Patience in the North of Argentina

Don’t expect anything to be on time. There is no attentive service in restaurants. Don’t be in a hurry to go anywhere, and you should be fine! 🙂

Is the North of Argentina Worth Visiting?

I can’t speak highly enough about traveling to the north of Argentina. Salta and Jujuy are my favorite provinces in Argentina, hands down. The people are kind, the life is slower, and everything is much more affordable up there. If you’re wondering if you should go to the north of Argentina, this is your positive sign to take that leap.

Salta and Jujuy Final Thoughts

Jujuy and Salta were easily my favorite provinces in all of Argentina. They are more affordable, more mystical, and less traveled than other provinces. I hope you will love Jujuy and Salta as much as I did!

Read more: see more posts about the Salta and Jujuy Provinces.

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