How to Find La Garganta del Diablo in Tilcara, Argentina -

Read this ultimate guide to finding the La Garganta del Diablo waterfall just outside of Tilcara, Argentina. The journey is beautiful.

La Garganta del Diablo translates to “The Devil’s Throat” in English. There are a few different places around Argentina that borrow this name. The particular Devil’s Throat I will discuss in this blog post is located just outside Tilcara, in the Jujuy Province in northern Argentina.

I went to Tilcara as a day trip from Purmamarca, which is only 30 minutes away. One of the main reasons I wanted to go to Tilcara was to see the waterfall at La Garganta del Diablo, which I had heard was stunning.

It was surprisingly difficult to find the start of the route from the center of Tilcara. If you too would like to hike up to see this waterfall, I’ve got the details for you. I will provide detailed instructions for reaching the trailhead, what the trail is like, what the waterfall is like, and where to stay in Tilcara.

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Basic Info about La Garganta Del Diablo

Distance: 4km walk from Tilcara town center (8km for cars- different route)
Time: 1-1.5 hours up, 45 minutes down, 1 hour at site. Expect 3-4 hours round trip.
Cost: pesos to enter La Garganta del Diablo (you pay at the top; appx 0.75 USD).

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Where is La Garganta Del Diablo located?

La Garganta Del Diablo is located outside the Jujeño town of Tilcara. It is not a big town, but it has all the conveniences of one: Supermarkets, hotels, hostels, Western Union (Yayy), restaurants, cafes, etc.

This La Garganta del Diablo in Tilcara is not to be confused with the
La Garganta del Diablo in the Salta Province, near Cafayate, nor the famous Devil’s Throat in Iguazu Falls (Foz de Iguaçu).

I was only in Tilcara for a day, but it seems like a fantastic place to use as a base for a few days to explore the area. Tilcara is only a 35-minute (USD 0.60) ride from Purmamarca, where I stayed. Buses go between the two towns quite frequently.

Map of Tilcara and La Garganta del Diablo

On the left is a map showing the location of La Garganta del Diablo in relation to both Tilcara and Purmamarca. The map on the right is the AllTrails map showing the trail from Tilcara to reach La Garganta del Diablo.

This is a map that shows the distance between Purmamarca and Tilcara, plus the trail to La Garganta del Diablo

This is the AllTrails map for La Garganta Del Diablo

Click here to see the La Garganta del Diablo hike on AllTrails.

How to Reach Tilcara from Purmamarca

You can check the bus times on the window of the bus terminal in Purmamarca. The drive between Tilcara and Purmamarca is only 35 minutes on a public bus.

As of June 2022, the buses to Tilcara from Purmamarca (M-F) leave at:

6:35
8:10
10:25
11:15

11:40
13:10
16:40
17:15

18:40
21:00
22:10
23:40

Getting back to Purmamarca: As of June 2022, the bus times from Tilcara to Purmamarca are as follows: 5:40, 7:00, 8:40, 10:15, 12:30, 12:45, 14:15, 14:45, 15:50, 18:10, 20:15, 21:00, 23:10.

How to Reach La Garganta Del Diablo

It can be challenging to find the start of the hike from the Tilcara town center, so here are detailed instructions for how to find it:

From the bus terminal, turn left and walk down Belgrano Street until you reach the main plaza.

This is the bus station in Tilcara. The POV is me sitting at the bench under the awning. I can see a bus to the left. Go right from here and turn left on the street to reach Tilcara center. — The Tilcara bus station

2. Right after the plaza, turn right on Rivadavia Street, and follow it all the way to the top until it dead ends.

Nicki is walking up Rivadavia Street to find the start of the hike to La Garganta Del Diablo — Rivadavia Street, walk up hill

3. Turn right at the dead end and follow the path that curves around to the left until you reach the red bridge (note: you can turn left down an alleyway if you’re looking for a small shortcut ).

This is a shortcut to reach the path to La Garganta Del Diablo — Take this shortcut

4. Once you reach the bridge, turn left to stay on the path. DO NOT CROSS THE BRIDGE.

The red bridge that you should NOT cross when looking for the hike to la garganta del diablo

5. Follow this path. After about 10-15 minutes, you’ll finally see a sign directing cars to go left (for 8km), or pedestrians to go right (for 4km).

6. From here, the path is obvious. Follow it all the way to the top!

What is the La Garganta Del Diablo hike like?

There are a few different portions to this hike, and I’ll explain each of them: the uphill portion, the flat portion, entering the park area, and the final push to the waterfall along the riverbeds.

The first portion of the hike

The first part of the route is tiresome. Be prepared. Some large rocks and stones form stairs that you’ll need to walk up, as you walk along cliffs and ledges. It is quite rocky. If you’re not accustomed to the altitude, consider bringing cocoa leaves or candies.

If you go in the morning, you can expect this side of the mountain to be shady, so dress appropriately. It was fairly cold. If you go in the afternoon, it will be very hot.

The scenery along the path to La Garganta Del Diablo

The scenery along the path to La Garganta Del Diablo. There are shaded cacti in the foreground and brightly colored mountains in the distance.

The second portion of the hike

The second part of the route flattens out a bit, as you walk along dirt paths that pass through fields of cacti and bushes. The mountains are to your left and right. Once you reach one giant cactus on the left side of the path, you’ll know you’ve got just 600 meters to go.

This is also the point where the car road and the pedestrian path meet. Follow the path around the curve, looking down on the giant canyon to your right side.

Nicki stands next to a giant cactus along the Garganta del Diablo trail

North of Argentina: A dirt trail goes off into the distance with plants and cacti on both sides. In the distance you can see multi-colored mountains of Tilcara.

The signs showing where to go along the La Garganta del Diablo trail.

Entering the official area

Once you reach the entrance, you’ll see a small hut where you’ll pay the entrance fee. You’ll also need to sign in (and out when you leave) so they can keep track of who is there.

After paying, go down into the canyon. There you’ll see a sign with arrows that points you to the ‘mirador‘ (look out) to the right and the ‘cascada‘ (waterfall) to the left. I suggest going right first.

It is actually one giant circuit so you won’t need to double back. Go right in the direction of the mirador, which will allow you to look down into the canyon. You’ll then reach a small yellow ladder. Climb up the ladder, and then keep going straight and follow the signs to the waterfall.

Nicki climbs up a ladder near the La Garganta del Diablo hike

A river along the La Garganta Del Diablo hike

Nicki stands in front of the La Garganta del Diablo waterfall outside of Tilcara, Argentina

The third portion of the hike

It’s about a 15-20 minute walk to the waterfall through rock beds, and small streams. Follow the river bed around to the left, and before you know it, you’ll see the waterfall. It’s not a massive waterfall, but it is quite pretty. The area feels really peaceful. Every person I met there along the way was incredibly kind.

What to Bring on the La Garganta Del Diablo Hike

SPF – it gets very sunny
Sweater – if you go in the morning, it’s very shady on the way up
Hat/cap – it gets very sunny
T-shirt – Once the sun comes out, it gets very hot!
Sunglasses – hello, sun!
Tripod – especially if you’re going alone!
Water bottle – I finished mine early and wished I had more
Cocoa leaves/lemon candy – in case you experience altitude sickness
Camera/phone – you’re definitely going to want to take photos
Money – pesos for the entrance
AllTrails App – this is very handy for finding the trail

I use AllTrails Plus when I go hiking. I highly recommend it as you can download offline maps, and send out “lifelines” to friends and family to let them know exactly where you are. You can rate trails, and get inspired to try new ones. The membership is $35/year, but with this discount, it is just $25 for the year. That’s barely $2/month.

Click here to get 30% OFF of your own AllTrails Plus account
Use code: nickiposts30

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Getting back to town (Tilcara)

Go back the exact way you came up. Don’t forget to sign out before leaving the hut. Going down is quicker and not as strenuous as going up. You’ll probably pass by several people on your way down who are making their way up. They’ll want to know how much further! Everyone asked me this question.

What is Tilcara like?

Tilcara has a hippie vibe to it. There were several travelers here (mostly Argentinian) who were staying in Tilcara as a base to explore the area. It is much more developed than some of the other surrounding towns like Humahuaca and Purmamarca. Even though the town is small, you can find all the conveniences you’ll need.

Eating in Tilcara

There are lots of options to find good food in Tilcara.

Breakfast in Tilcara

If you are in Tilcara in the morning, you will be lucky enough to see the street food vendors. There are several women lined along the main road selling breakfast. The smells and sights are incredible.

I had the best tortilla rellena here, filled with onion, cheese, and tomato. There is also a warm drink called ‘api‘ which is similar to the chicha morada in Peru, made of purple corn. The api is slightly thicker than chicha morada and has a more cinnamon taste.

North of Argentina, Tilcara: looking down on a tortilla rellena and a cup of purple api on the concrete.

A street scene in Tilcara. Women stand in front of a shop. One woman carries a baby on her back.

Lunch in Tilcara

If you go up to La Garganta del Diablo in the morning, you’ll get back to town just in time for lunch. There are several restaurants surrounding the main plaza.

The restaurants next to the plaza on Rivadavia Street have outdoor seating, which I loved while enjoying my chicken and potatoes al fresco. I ate at A La Payla Restaurant, which I highly recommend. In the center of the plaza are several market stands set up if you’re looking for a few souvenirs.

A pink building that is a great restaurant in Tilcara, Argentina

The meal I ate in Tilcara. Chicken and potatoes.

Where to stay in Tilcara

Even though it’s a small town, Tilcara has many sleeping options.

Loma Tika – Tilcara Hostel

This is a popular budget hostel in the center of Tilcara. Shared rooms and bathrooms.

Book your bed NOW in this popular Tilcara hostel

Cabañas Malka

Here you can find private bungalows in nature. Each bungalow has a self-sufficient kitchen and private bathroom. There is also a BBQ pit to share.

Stay in these peaceful bungalows in Tilcara, BOOK NOW

Bella Tilcara Boutique Hotel

This is a bright and clean boutique hotel in the center of Tilcara, with beautiful mountain views. Breakfast is included.

BOOK YOUR SPOT NOW in this beautiful boutique hotel in Tilcara

Day Trips from Tilcara

There are so many great desert towns in the north of Argentina. The benefit is that none of them are very far apart, so you can see lots of new things without much effort.

Purmamarca

Purmamarca is one of the most well-known towns in the north of Argentina. It is surrounded by the Cerro de los Siete Colores (Hill of Seven Colors). It is also within easy reach of the Salinas Grandes (salt flats). A very cute desert town.

Nicki stands behind the Ojo del Salar in the salinas grandes jujuy

Maimará

This is a very small desert town surrounded by mountains. There is not much to do here besides hike in the nearby hills and walk around the sleepy roads.

North of Argentina: An empty desert street in the small town of Maimara. The buildings are old and crumbling, and there is a blue sky in the background. There are several poles and electrical lines.

Humahuaca

Humahuaca is a small desert town in the very north of Argentina. You’ll need to pass through here if you want to reach Iruya, one of the more secluded towns of Salta. It is also the place to start if you want to see the Serrania del Hornocal (Rainbow Mountain).

A corner restaurant in the center of Humahuaca in the north of Argentina

Uquia

This is a very small town just off the main highway. There isn’t much to do here in town besides eat and visit the local market. However, you can take a hike up into the red hills behind Uquia to the Quebrada de las Señoritas, one of the most underrated sites in northern Argentina.

Nicki stands in a red hallway of rocks in la quebrada de las señoritas

North of Argentina: You can see the red rock faces of the mountains of La Quebrada de la Señorita.

Tours to Tilcara

If you don’t have a lot of time to explore Tilcara and the surrounding area on your own, joining tours is a great option. Several tours leave from Salta and San Salvador de Jujuy in the northern provinces. Here are a few full-day tours:

La Garganta Del Diablo Final Thoughts

If I had more time, I would have chosen to spend several days in Tilcara, rather than just a day. Even though the town is quite small, it is definitely worth spending a bit more time here. That said, I enjoyed hiking up to La Garganta del Diablo. It’s off the beaten path and deep into northern Argentina’s nature.

The pinterest sign for La Garganta Del Diablo

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