Where to Eat in Purmamarca Argentina: Best Restaurants

This is your ultimate guide to where to eat in Purmamarca. The North of Argentina has many rich flavors, and this town is the most well-known.

While it may be a small town, there are so many great places to eat in Purmamarca. A lot of people come through Purmamarca Argentina on a day trip, and others spend one or two nights here visiting the Hill of Seven Colors (Cerro de los Siete Colores). I stayed an entire week!

Since my guest house only provided breakfast and didn’t allow us to use the kitchen otherwise, I ate all my lunches and dinners in the local restaurants around town. I tried a new restaurant for nearly every meal.

While certain things seem to be slightly more expensive in Purmamarca, such as lodging and laundry, the food prices tend to compare quite nicely to the rest of the region. This is your ultimate guide for understanding the food of the North of Argentina and where to eat in Purmamarca.

Understanding Dining Culture in Northern Argentina

The North of Argentina is a unique and special region in the country. It is very different from the other regions of Argentina like Patagonia or Buenos Aires. If you travel in this area of Argentina, you should definitely dive into the cuisine culture here.

Many people come to Purmamarca to see the Cerro de Siete Colores and the Salinas Grandes. So if you stay here for a couple of days, you’ll want to know where are the best places to eat in Purmamarca.

What is a peña?

You can find peñas all across the north of Argentina from Cafayate all the way north up to Iruya. A peña is a dining experience with live folkloric music (música folclórico). It is a rich part of the Salta and Jujuy culture.

There is usually one person or a small group of people playing traditional folclórico music in the front of the restaurant while everyone dines. A peña is so much more than listening to música folclórico, but is an immersive experience. The singers usually engage the audience and ask each table where they are from.

Often you will see the diners singing, clapping, and joining in with the music. This creates an inclusive and magical environment. It was one of my favorite things to experience in the north of Argentina.

In some towns in the north, you have to search out specific locations to experience a peña. In Purmamarca, however, nearly every single restaurant turns into a peña. Visiting a peña in Salta or Jujuy is highly recommended.

What types of food do they eat in the north of Argentina?

In northern Argentina, the food tends to be much spicier than the rest of the country. The more common meats consumed in the north are also reflective of the surrounding area- lots of llama meat. Llama stews, soups, and llama BBQ. I also found it was very common to have fresh lemonade, which I loved.

You will also find lots of tamales and humitas up north. There is also a commonly used sauce called aji picante.

The average price for a meal in Purmamarca is about 8-10 USD. Street food is cheaper of course, but there are also more upscale restaurants with higher prices. I have listed the price for each meal I had below.

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Where to Eat in Purmamarca

There are so many great places to eat in Purmamarca even though it is such a small town.

Eat on the street in Purmamarca

Both delicious and affordable, trying out the street food is always a great idea. The most common food you’ll see sold on the streets of Purmamarca is a “tortilla rellena.” Generally, there are two options- ham & cheese, and corn & cheese.

You’ll see grills down all the main streets in Purmamarca selling them. They smell good, they’re delicious, and they don’t break the bank. This is the best (and cheapest) thing you can eat in Purmamarca.

They usually cost about $1-2 each. If you’re looking for a cheap eat in Purmamarca, this is it! Plus it’s delicious!

Cafeteria el Algarrobo

This is one of the few places with outdoor seating. It has a patio to sit in the sun and people-watch in the main plaza. They have empanadas (deep fried only), humitas, fresh orange juice, and of course, cafe con leche.

This is a great spot for a merienda, or snack. It seems to be the same owner as Restaurante el Algarrobo (listed below), as the exteriors are very similar.

Restaurante el Algarrobo

Just a half block from the main plaza on Calle LaValle, sits this magnificent and unassuming restaurant, with the word ‘comedor‘ above the main door. I came here one evening for dinner and asked for something typical of the region.

They recommended trying the llama parrilla. It was fantastic. This is probably my favorite place to eat in Purmamarca. I had grilled llama, rice with an egg, grilled vegetables, and potatoes. I also got a glass of red wine. All for $6, including tip.

Kuntur Resto Bar

This restaurant is just a 45-second walk from El Algarrobo on the same street, Calle LaValle. I came here for lunch one afternoon and got a great seat by the window. The space is large and has a ton of tables in the back as well.

Sometimes I like to order food with names I haven’t tried yet, just to see what it’s like. That’s what I did here, and got the ‘Tira de Asado,’ which turned out to be long strips of grilled beef ribs. I was also able to choose one side between salad, rice, or potatoes.

I won’t lie, I didn’t love the meat, but only because I don’t normally like ribs, and it was a bit too fatty for me, though the flavor was nice. Along with my meal, I ordered a fresh lemonade. The total for everything was 8 USD.

Los Tientos

I highly recommend coming here for dinner. Not for the food exactly, but for the ambiance. I had the vegetarian ‘risotto,’ which was made with quinoa rather than rice, and I didn’t love it, though it wasn’t terrible. I imagine the meat dishes are delicious.

The reason I fell in love with this place was the atmosphere. I arrived around 8 pm, so there weren’t many people yet. But around 8:30 it started getting crowded, and at 9 pm, the band started playing.

They played traditional Argentine folclórico music, and everyone sang along and clapped their hands. The main singer also went around asking everyone where they were from, and everyone clapped for each other. It was all very warm and welcoming. This restaurant was the most fun place to eat in Purmamarca.

Veggie risotto + wine + tip = $6.50 USD.

Ruta 52 Cafeteria Restaurante

I stumbled upon this place purely by accident one day for lunch, and I’m really glad I did. The inside felt cozy and warm as the musician up front played more Argentinian folclórico music on his guitar.

Once again, all the Argentinians there clapped and sang along to all the songs I had never heard before but loved. A woman at another table had ordered the fresh lemonade and cazuela de llama (llama stew), and when it came out I said “That’s what I want.” I liked it, but not love it.

I wish the broth had a bit more flavor to it, and I also wish there were fewer meat chunks and more veggies to round out the meal. But I still enjoyed myself.

Cazuela de llama + lemonade + tip + 100p tip for the musician = $8 USD.

Del Sol- Parrilla & Restaurante

This restaurant sits right on the corner and is very easy to find with its bright yellow sun on the front. Decent food, terrible service. Similar to most restaurants in Purmamarca, you will be able to enjoy live folclórico music with your meal.

I didn’t feel the ambiance of this restaurant was as warm and inviting as several others I went to. Also, I felt like I was a burden to the servers who sat at the register chatting with each other and ignoring the customers. This was the worst dining experience I had in Purmamarca.

Llama al disco + lemonade = $8 USD.

Los Morteros

This was my most expensive meal, but also one of the best. The ambiance here was incredibly warm, cozy, and inviting. I sat next to the fireplace. I was here in the evening, the lights were low, and the music was pleasant. This was one of the few restaurants that didn’t have live music, but it was a nice change to lay low and read my book.

I ordered a glass of Malbec, lomo de ternera, and mashed potatoes for a total of $12 USD (including tip).

Kunturi Cafe Tienda

Unfortunately, I only discovered this cafe on my last day. It seems to be the only spot in town with a roof terrace. The food menu is a bit limited, as they only had pizza and empanadas available when I went. But they have several cafe and drink options.

It was a lovely place to sit, read, and have a meal in the sun with a beautiful view. You can find the entrance off the main street of Rivadavia, just before reaching Calle Salta. You’ll pass through a small courtyard and the stairs are to the left.

Eat in Purmamarca Final Thoughts

Experiencing the cuisine of a place is one of the best ways to learn about and understand the local culture. The entire dining experience in the north of Argentina is incredibly unique from the sounds of a peña to the tastes of llama.

I hope you’ll spend a few days soaking up all the Purmamarca has to offer, and enjoy several delicious meals.

Where to stay in Purmamarca

Del Amauta Hosteria

A beautiful place to stay in Del Amauta Hosteria. It has a great location right on the edge of town, but everything here is walkable. The rooms are clean and beautiful.

Click HERE to see the availability for Del Amauta Hosteria and make sure to BOOK AHEAD

Hostal Giramundo

A popular hostel in Purmamarca is Hostal Giramundo. There are a number of these hostels around the north of Argentina, and they are very fun places with great ambiance.

Click HERE to see the availability for the Hostal Giramundo

Los Colorados Cabañas Boutique

This hotel is one of the most beautiful places to stay in Purmamarca. It’s set back a bit from the center of town and feels like it’s built right into the red rocks. This is one of the most unique hotels in Jujuy. If you’re looking to treat yourself a little, stay here.

Click HERE to book the beautiful Los Colorados Cabañas Boutique

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