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Coming to a new city can be really overwhelming for the first time. You need to figure out where to live, and how to get around, often before you have even seen the city with your own eyes. I put together this Belgrano Buenos Aires neighborhood guide to help you get a bit more acquainted with the area, and hopefully make your transition a bit easier. Also, make sure to check out these TIPS for moving to Buenos Aires.
Check out these other Buenos Aires neighborhoods:
Guide to the Best Neighborhoods of Buenos Aires
Almagro & Caballito
SUMMARY OF BELGRANO
Belgrano is one of the nicer neighborhoods in the city, and some would consider it to be the safest. It’s a middle and upper class neighborhood, which is reflected in the architecture, houses, and several dog walkers (only rich people can afford to pay for a dog walker). The stadium for the River futbol team is also found in Belgrano, as is Barrio Chino.
VIBE IN BELGRANO BUENOS AIRES
Walking around Belgrano Buenos Aires, the wealth of the neighborhood can be felt. There are less people on the street (once you get off Cabildo), and definitely a lot less chaos. There are several plazas, parks, and green spaces which contribute to a comfortable, laid back vibe. The restaurants and cafes also tend to be on the fancier side, which is definitely reflected in the prices as well. Barrio Chino (next to Plaza Barrancas de Belgrano Park) is bustling on the weekends, full of Asian supermarkets, Chinese restaurants, bubble tea stands, and Korean street food.
TRANSPORTATION IN BELGRANO
The subte line D (green) passes through the center of Belgrano, along Avenida Cabildo, which is the main avenue of this hood. Jose Hernandez is the first subte stop at the start of the barrio, followed by Juramento, and ending with Congreso de Tucuman, which is the last stop on the D line. There are also loads of bus options throughout the neighborhood. All along the center of Avenida Cabildo are several bus stops that will take you to any other part of the city. Two stops of the Mitre Train line also pass through Belgrano (Belgrano C & Belgrano R), though they each head in opposite directions.
SHOPPING IN BELGRANO
Avenida Cabildo is lined with several shops of anything you ever dreamed of- sheets, jewelry, shoes, clothes, etc. Whatever you need, you can find it there. The side streets have more boutique style shops with higher prices.
There are a couple nice second hand shops (Cocoliche & Galpón de Ropa), though don’t expect the prices of second hand shops in the United States. In these shops, the quality is good, but the prices are a bit too high in my opinion for second hand goods.
PARKS IN BELGRANO
This park is in the northern part of the hood, a few blocks from the Congreso de Tucuman subte stop. It’s currently undergoing some construction, so not exactly a place for rest and relaxation at the moment. There is a food & veggie market on Tuesdays from 8am-2pm.
Plaza Manuel Belgrano
This lovely park is just a block east of Avenida Cabildo. There are several benches, and grass patches. You may even get lucky and see dance classes for older folks in the afternoons, and undoubtedly people drinking mate and reading books in the sun.
Plaza Barrancas de Belgrano
Plaza Barrancas de Belgrano is really more of a park than a plaza that stretches over 3 blocks. Just across the street is the start of Barrio Chino. Dividing Barrio Chino and this plaza/park are the train tracks for the Mitre train line. This park has a ton of wide open green spaces, as well as beautiful trees, a gazebo, and several benches and small tables.
Plaza los Olmos and Plaza Castelli
There are two small parks diagonal from one another, split by the Mitre line train tracks on the west side of Avenida Cabildo: Plaza los Olmos and Plaza Castelli. The former is a very small pocket park just next to the Belgrano R train stop. It’s a decent park with benches in the center in a circular fashion. The latter is a bit bigger and a bit greener, where several people go to exercise. There is also a decent playground for children.
Plaza Noruega is also on the west side of Avenida Cabildo in Belgrano. It’s a small park with a children’s playground and a carousel, which seems to be off during the winter months.
Lago de Regatas
The eastern edge of Belgrano is full of parks and green space. The Golf Course and Lago de Regatas is technically in Palermo, however, there is a walking path that goes all around it, right on the edge of Belgrano. People are walking, running, biking there all day long. The evening is particularly peaceful by the lake.
Paseo de las Americas
Paseo de las Americas is a large park divided in two by Avenida Figueroa Alcorta. On one side, there is a wide open space with a statue in the middle, and a public exercise area (with exercise items). On the other side you can find a skatepark and playground.
Plaza Parque Nacionales Argentinos and Plaza El Salvador
These two parks are close to each other. Starting with Plaza Parque Nacionales Argentinos. It is a small square corner park across from Paseo de las Americas. There are several trees and spots for picnics and mate sessions. Plaza El Salvador can be found just a couple blocks away, on the other side of Paseo de las Americas. Here you’ll find people exercising and playing sports and hanging out.
FOOD & DRINK IN BELGRANO
Casa Saenz Belgrano
Casa Saenz is a beautiful lunch cafe, though it is a bit on the pricy side. The food is amazingly delicious and hearty, with mainly vegetarian and vegan options. They open for lunch at noon, and I suggest getting there as early as possible to get the freshest food. The prepared food sits out on the counter tops, so people have the option to stand over it to see what there is. But that also means, people are standing over your potential lunch.
Moisha Cafe, a Jewish Cafe in Belgrano
Moisha Cafe is technically in Palermo, though it’s right on the border with Belgrano, and it feels much more Belgrano’ish, so I’m including it here. It’s a Jewish cafe with fantastic bagels, pretzels, and several coffee options. Inside is cozy and the people working here are really nice. Unfortunately I did not see shakshouka on the menu, which I was hoping to find.
Vegan Eats in Belgrano
Gordo Vegano is a very small vegan restaurant in the southwest part of Belgrano. The food is absolutely delicious, but the design of the space leaves a lot to be desired. Straying from standard restaurant practice in the city, you must first sit at the table to choose what you want, then go up to the counter to order and pay, and then go back to your table with your number. It’s all a bit awkward, but if you can ignore the layout and lack of layout sense, your mouth will be treated with something special.
Santal in Belgrano
Santal (there are actually 3 locations) is a quiet cafe and brunch spot. It is quite relaxed and has plenty of tables both inside and outside on the back patio. There is a great brunch for two menu: avocado toasts, chipa filled with mushrooms, alfajor, banana bread with cream, lemonade, coffee, and aperol spritz. It’s really relaxing to order the brunch bit by bit and enjoy the sun in the garden.
WHAT TO DO & SEE IN BELGRANO
From Asian areas to futbol games, there are so many things to see and do in Belgrano Argentina. You will not be able to do it all in one day. Belgrano is one of the best neighborhoods to visit, as it is vibrant and lively culture will keep you coming back for more.
Belgrano Barrio Chino
Definitely take a stroll through the Barrio Chino. There is a giant Chinese archway marking the start of the area. This spot has great energy, and tons of restaurant options (mainly Chinese and Japanese) for when you are sick of eating Argentinian food. When the rest of the city is quiet on Sundays, Barrio Chino is booming.
Futbol in Belgrano
Buenos Aires has 4 major futbol teams, one of which is River Plate (main rival of Boca Jr). The River Plate stadium is on the northeastern edge of the Belgrano neighborhood. There is both a stadium and a museum here. If you’re a futbol fan, you won’t be disappointed. Try to catch a game or just stroll around to see the outside of the stadium, or visit the museum.
This museum holds several items from the Spanish Renaissance and Baroque periods. It was the previous residence of the Argentina born writer Enrique Larreta. In 1962, this private residence was donated to the city and turned into a public museum. In the back of the house is a beautiful Spanish style garden with fountains, statues, and several types of both flora (bushes, palm trees, etc.) and fauna (wild cats). It is free to the public every Wednesday, regardless of foreigner/local status.