SAN TELMO Buenos Aires | A Guide to the City’s Funkiest Neighborhood

The San Telmo neighborhood of Buenos Aires is known for its Bohemian vibes, antique shops, street performers, and massive Sunday Market.

The San Telmo Buenos Aires neighborhood is one of the funkiest areas of the city. You can find excellent bars and cafes as well as street performers dancing tango and late-night drum parades.

When I lived in Buenos Aires in my early 20’s I spent most nights out here listening to live National Argentine rock music and perusing the market stalls of the San Telmo Sunday Market. Even in my 40’s it is still one of my favorite neighborhoods, spending time in the cute cafes and drinking mate in the park with friends.

This San Telmo neighborhood guide will give you a great idea of the feel of the area, where to eat, what to do, and where to stay.

Summary of the San Telmo Buenos Aires neighborhood

San Telmo is one of the oldest neighborhoods in Buenos Aires. It runs along the small river/dique that separates San Telmo from Puerto Madero. Because San Telmo is one of the oldest neighborhoods in the city, it is also one of the best preserved. It’s known for its colonial-style architecture, cobblestone streets, and Sunday market. This is also the neighborhood if you’re looking for antiques.

The Bohemian Vibe of San Telmo

San Telmo has a more hippie/bohemian feel to it than other areas of the city. The streets are pretty sleepy during the weekdays, but the area comes alive in the evenings and weekends.

Plaza Dorrego is at the heart of the barrio and the San Telmo Sunday market (Feria San Telmo), where street performers and live tango can be seen. The covered San Telmo market (Mercado San Telmo) is fairly new and has a lively feel. It is full of veggie and antique vendors, as well as pastry, empanada, and asado restaurants.

Unfortunately, the rents for vendors at the Mercado San Telmo have increased, making the food in each restaurant noticeably more expensive.

Transportation in San Telmo

Buenos Aires has great transportation, but unfortunately, no subte passes through San Telmo. However, several bus lines and bus stops go along Avenida Colón. The closest subte stations are Independencia (line C) to the west, Belgrano (line E), and Plaza de Mayo to the north (line A).

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What to do in San Telmo Buenos Aires

You can easily spend several days occupying yourself in the San Telmo neighborhood.

Go shopping in San Telmo

Feria San Telmo

The best shopping is at the San Telmo Sunday market, or Feria San Telmo. The market goes all along Calle Defensa, starting from the Plaza de Mayo, passing by Plaza Dorrego, until Parque Lezama.

There are hundreds of market stands where you can get anything from band T-shirts, mate equipment, paintings, knives, baby clothes, etc. There is also a much smaller market on Saturdays in Plaza Dorrego.

Mercado Argentino Vintage

There is a great second-hand shop just one block from Plaza Dorrego, called Mercado Argentino Vintage. Even if you don’t want to buy anything, it’s worth stopping in to see the funky items they’ve got.

SACH San Telmo

SACH San Telmo is a cute little corner store where you can find unique pieces made by local artists.

San Telmo Courtyards

There are a few hidden patio courtyards in San Telmo Buenos Aires. What were once mansions, are now centers for artisan products and souvenirs. I recommend checking out Casa Ezeiza, which was once the mansion of the Ezeiza family, for which the international airport is named.

Relax in a San Telmo Park

Parque Lezama sits at the southern tip of San Telmo. It’s a large green space, with a few benches around. But mostly you’ll find Argentines hanging out on the grass, drinking mate, and smoking cigarettes. Even though there are many great parks in Buenos Aires, this is the only real park in San Telmo.

Eat and Drink in San Telmo

There are dozens of delicious things to eat in the San Telmo neighborhood. You can find everything from ramen noodle spots to Mexican food, empanadas, and trendy cafes.

Nica Mercado

NICA Mercado is a cute little spot right in the center of the neighborhood on Calle Bolivar. It’s also woman-owned, which I love to support. They have weekly lunch promos and a great sandwich, salad, and cafe menu. The best part? They have bagels. The worst part? The table-bench height ratio is a bit awkward for eating. I suggest sitting either outside, or at a regular table that is not along the wall.

Bares Notables

Bares Notables are the traditional restaurants of the Buenos Aires past. They still retain their original charm, decorations, tables, and even utensils. There are several scattered around the San Telmo neighborhood. They all have similar menus, including the delicious Spanish-style tortilla and pasta.

The best Bares Notables in the San Telmo neighborhood are La Poesia, Bar El Federal, Bar Británico, and El Hipopótamo.

Atis Bar

Atis Bar is like a massive secret garden in the middle of San Telmo. This building used to be a nun’s convent in the late 1800’s. It was then transformed into a residencia de inmigrantes after a yellow fever epidemic.

Now it is a beautiful restaurant and bar with both inside and outside seating, and over 500 plants. It is absolutely incredible. Just make sure to go early and know the wait for a table can be long.

Casa Telma

Casa Telma is a super cute cafe just across the street from the Mercado de San Telmo. It gets very crowded on weekends, with a line out the door, but during the week it’s the perfect spot to grab a coffee and get some work done. It smells like freshly baked bread.

Che Taco Comida Mexicana

If you’re looking for real Mexican food, look no further than Che Taco. This is easily the best Mexican food in Buenos Aires. You can find actual spicy sauces here, along with micheladas, huaraches, sopes, and burritos. Worth the stop.

Parrilla el Polo

I used to love the Hierro Parrilla San Telmo, however, it has become insanely expensive. This is most likely due to the rising rent prices in the Mercado San Telmo. But if you want to try a local parrilla spot in the San Telmo neighborhood, look no further than Parrilla Bar el Polo. This place is family-run with great prices and delicious food options. Cash only.

Get Cultured in San Telmo

There are lots of opportunities to learn about and feel closer to Argentine culture and history.

Mitos Argentinos

Mitos Argentinos is a fantastic place to see live music from bands playing Rock Nacional Argentino. This spot has been around for 30 years and is still going strong. A must-do if you like live music.

La Casa Minima & The Zanjón Tunnels

La Casa Minima is a tiny apartment with a green door and a myth that this home was given to a newly freed enslaved person. You can book tours for both La Casa Minima as an add-on with the Tunnels of Zanjon de Granados tour. The Zanjón de Granados is a mysterious passage of tunnels underneath the city. They have tours in both English and Spanish.

Museo Moderno

San Telmo has a great modern art museum, Museo Moderno, that has multiple floors and several gallery spaces, highlighting contemporary Argentine artists from the past several decades. It is free on Wednesdays.

Museo de Titeres

Check out the very unique Argentinian Puppet Museum. It is only open on weekends, but if you can stop by, it’ll be worth your money. It’s technically free but they ask for donations to run it. They also have a puppet show that you can pay extra for (in Spanish).

Museo Histórico Nacional

Museo Histórico Nacional is a totally free museum explaining the story of how Argentina came to be, its independence from Spain, and several other battles that took place here. All the information is in Spanish.

Where to Stay in San Telmo

Casona en San Telmo

This is a private apartment in the center of San Telmo. The apartment has wifi, a terrace, and a fully equipped kitchen.

STAY HERE in this fully equipped private apartment in San Telmo

San Telmo Suites

The rooms here are modern, in a renovated historical building. You can easily walk to the market and the Plaza de Mayo from here.

Stay in a renovated historical building in the heart of San Telmo, BOOK NOW

Pasaje Solar

This accommodation feels like a private home with a fully equipped kitchen and a beautiful garden. It’s in a perfect location, just two blocks from Plaza Dorrego.

BOOK NOW to stay close to the action in San Telmo

Check out these other Buenos Aires neighborhoods

Get to know these other Buenos Aires neighborhoods. Each area is unique and has its own charm.

Guide to the Best Neighborhoods of Buenos Aires

San Telmo Buenos Aires Final Thoughts

A visit to Buenos Aires is not complete without a stop in the San Telmo neighborhood. It has a sleepy vibe during the week but comes alive on the weekends. Watch the street performers dancing tango, go shopping in the Feria San Telmo, and visit some truly unique museums.

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